Best double length sling anchor reddit. rope (or sling) in service.

Best double length sling anchor reddit For Multi-pitch. Double-length slings fit perfectly over the shoulder without doubling, and so are suitable to rack gear on as well. 4-6 lockers, with at least two being dedicated solely for top roping and one being dedicated for your belay device. The sewn label and ease of unraveling an alpine draw is worth the premium price imo. The only impact it has is making sure I have two of the same length for the anchor. It would be a bad idea to fall on one, but you really shouldn't put yourself in that position. Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. S. The slings could be looped multiple times over the biner attached to the bolt or knotted to equalize. Pretty light and plenty of length. If you want redundancy (slings can get worn after a while) then put an overhand knot halfway up a double length sling. the knot might snag. Double the sling over, grab both loops, twist, then clip them back to the locker in a good, twisty mess. I like to use a cordalette and build an anchor with 3-4 pieces and a big pre-equalized master point. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2*(rating oft the sling)*0. On the down this is used to extend my rappel. If double strand 5mm is about as strong as single strand 7mm, and it only requires twice the length of cord. I can tie two bolts together with a double length sling in literally seconds, and achieve zero extension. Best of Reddit; Topics; Content Policy; I would just go with a double-length sling - 120 cm here: yeah. Years later I’m still stuck with two different lengths. Generally if they look bad, they are bad. you don't need a PAS to anchor yourself to something. Weight of cord should scale with cross-section so since 2*5 2 ~ 7 2 it would depend on how efficient each configuration is and how much thinner the double strand version can be. How long should the cordelette be, and is there a "best" diameter? I have seen anywhere from 14ft to 30ft for length and that a minimum diameter is around 5. In this case, I would make an anchor with slings to extend it. The bolts were a bit off to one another and to properly pre-equalize the system I used an overhand knot to slightly shorten one of the slings. Rappel off this knot, use the rest of the sling to clip in to the anchors when doing multiple rappels. 5 can vary from 0. I usually carry 12 shoulder length (2ft), 2 double length (4ft) runners, and a cordelette when I climb there. You're good. Dynema is amazing. Oct 22, 2017 · Evolve your thinking past what is "best" or "best practice". that's more of an anchor building rope. But honestly, for simple top ropes that don’t require extension etc, you’ll Probably be fine with just quick draws. its nice to be able to clearly weight your atc and observe your personal anchor being slack The slings you will use for a top rope anchor will typically be 120cm, while those for a sling draw would be 60cm (although you are correct in thinking that Dyneema is the best kind of sling for this purpose). This anchor is fine. Two anchor pieces, each about the size of a draw on your harness, and pretty darn light. May 23, 2016 · The single/double length sling. The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. Reply reply I girth a double length sling or two to my harness and tie an overhang 1/3 of the way up, then I can navigate rappels super safely and dont have to bring any extra gear. Extra long extension or anchors. Best of Reddit; Topics; about a cordelette or sling anchor that people typically use for a 2 bolt anchor (doubled with limiting knots making a master point with 4 Because the space between them was pretty large and my 120cm sling (or double length I heard is called) was creating a larger angle (about 60) I decided to use 2 120 slings. Larry Gergich's post answers the rest of the questions pretty well. We each carried one of these and also used them for all of our anchor building (natural anchors usually). 248K subscribers in the tacticalgear community. I also like the trick where I have one or two double lengths over the opposite shoulder, doubled up with a carabiner and under the single length sling-sling. ) are a useful length—roughly 2 or 3 times longer than most quickdraws; they're a good length to wear over a shoulder or as an alpine quickdraw. Not redundant. If you only put the biner through one strand in the middle (as pictured) the webbing could fail in one place inside the limiters and the whole anchor fails. Double or triple length slings has been go my go-to multipitch setup for 95% of gear anchors in the US for a while now. If there are bolted anchors just get a double shoulder length sling and 4 locking biners. You don't have to fall fifty feet I have only had to use the two 30s together once when the hangers were removed from a set of anchors and had to sling a block that was well back from the edge of the climb. Remember that fall factor is a ratio of fall distance vs. Holy shit it's so nice for anchors. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done. 8mm (70m) Now me and a couple friends are getting into multipitch climbs and I want to know the best ways to build an anchor, belay, switch off, etc. Setting up on a different route: 2 bolt anchor, double length sling tied with figure 8, locker on masterpoint. Climbing in Yosemite, for example, will often give you two bolts in close proximity if you have bolted anchors at all. Posted by u/leggman7 - 4 votes and 7 comments A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. Keep slack out of your static anchors. You can equalize a 3 piece anchor with a double-length sling in a sliding X. 305 votes, 96 comments. -Prussik cord with a locker. Posted by u/sheatetheseeds - 27 votes and 73 comments But it certainly does not conform to best practices. I like the space that it frees up on the harness, and also the added location to grab a sling when needed. If you meet these criteria, i would recommend a double length (120cm) or a quad length (240cm) dyneema sling depending on the type of anchor you’ll make, with 3-4 lockers. We also bring up a shovel and probe for the group. Now tie a knot a third of the way out. Moved Permanently. And honestly, two equallettes isn't bad. BD Positron Lockers on one QD + BD Positron non-lockers on other) For bolted anchors that are still close, but too far apart for QD's: Double-length (120cm) sewn nylon sling plus four (4) BD Positron locking carabiners (one for each bolt, plus two for masterpoint). Anchor sling length/rigging question? Hopefully gonna make it to REI tomorrow to get my primitive rig. Eli gave you two options. Single-length slings (60cm/24 in. I can anchor with the 8, I setup my rappel on the butterfly, then remove the 8 and clip it back to my belay loop for shit an The slings are redundant by virtue of their being two of them attached to different anchor points. The doubles are accessed by unclipping and pulling out from under the single length. But as with everything anchor-related, it depends. the ‘double-double’): The YouTuber suggested possibly using two individual double-length slings with Magic-Xs. Like Van Wilder said, the redundancy you are looking for is in the protection on the wall. Because of the roofs, traverses, and lack of vertical cracks, you will find yourself using a ton of slings at the Gunks. It's definitely arguable how much time it actually saves. Double-length slings (120cm/48 in. -2 HMS style lockers for clove hitches. For threading through an anchor I usually use 2 quickdraws, or one girth-hitched long sling and a quickdraw. P. 1. My rappelling method is as such: Girth hitch one side of double length sling to your harness tie-in points, put an overhand knot in about half-way up, and put a locker at the very end of the sling to attach yourself to chains Item Description Number Cost Link Rope Edelweiss Rocklight II Climbing Rope - 9. Oct 5, 2017 · My climbing friends have been telling me it's bad practice to get into setting up top rope anchors using slings. 5 grams. If I had to use double length slings, I would almost certainly use a cordelette. I usually only need two single length slings to create the anchor. You can use a quick draw attached to your personal anchor to do this. For an alpine rack I would carry less cams, more nuts, some 60cm alpine qd and two 120cm slings with biners clipped end to end around chest. There's a good reason people say to clove hitch in with the rope to an anchor. Care must be taken to ensure there is no fall potential on generated slack within that attachment. By putting the knot 1/3 of the length out you should have plenty of headroom to clearly weight your rappel before disconnecting from the anchors. Your personal sling/anchor should be solid if you know how old it is etcetera. And yes we are scared of falling. This means there´s at least a good 10 cm of material on both ends that runs double (and this seems like a pretty standard setup, the max length is very long). A safer alternative using the gear in hand would be to use one sling per bolt and knot the two together above the lockers. Since I guess you can use thinner cord for double. Cost effective multi-purpose item with the distinct disadvantages of not being adjustable or shock absorbing. 5 meter rope tether. That gives a couple more options for length based on where you put the biner. Hm, I find in trad climbing that if the good gear placements are any significant distance away from each other that it's not really adequate to just have slings (even double length slings). The Metolius Personal Anchor System (PAS). I have been using the "sliding X" and "equalette" anchor systems but am looking to invest in a cordelette to build a quad anchor with for extended periods of top roping. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. The home of Climbing on reddit. The document has moved here. I only use it for static protection though, I would never use a sling as a PAS if I wanted to work on a particular section of a climb off belay, for example - although it would probably hold, other systems transfer much less energy to the last point of security, such as a PAS made from dynamic rope. Quickdraws/Slings/'biners 6 pre made "stubby" quickdraws draws, 4 shoulder length slings, 2 double shoulder length slings, 25' of 7-8mm accessory cord. I find having something extra only for that purpose is unnecessary and just extra bulk. I dont find myself wanting to shorten the personal anchor length past that. Edit: Building an anchor at a two-bolt station with a double-length runner takes about a minute. But 99 times out of 100 I'll pick dynema 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. Nov 9, 2021 · A knotted sling has more than enough strength to be a suitable anchor. Subreddit for both professional and civilian tactical gear. Use this for gear anchors, tree anchors and so forth Also get a couple double length slings for tied off anchors. Posted by u/richard_briggs7 - 4 votes and 10 comments Drop the PAS and opt for a double length sling, a single length sling and some static cord for a prussik loop. M. 93. If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a bit. A double length sling is also useful for aiding through hard cruxes if you don't want to bail. sfbsuiv ctyunz zypyaadi hlcxjnl ceh nwkoh kncks nbuancgo yyjwbaq nokgvuno ukgm ossb bdbms ofcoas zapx