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Climbing nuts vs hexes Except it still retains the original ground-breaking geometry that separated the Rock from all other nuts. Jan 22, 2010 · When I first started trad climbing all I could afford were nuts, hexes, and tricams. If you are carrying hexes make them strong enough to use. Think of micro-nuts as a last resort—you need a piece of gear and the only option is the tiniest crack where only a micro-nut fits. Lightweight aluminium alloy construction means that despite their low weight, each Torque Nut has a 14kN strength rating. Active pro refers mainly to cams, unless you are climbing a wide crack (called an offwidth), which might require the active pro known as a Big Bro. We tested all of the products in our review in a variety of rock types in places like Squamish, Eldorado Canyon, Yosemite Valley, the North Cascades, Smith Rocks, Red Rock, Joshua Tree, Zion, and more. I carry 3 or so hexes on any unknown trad line where they look appropriate. Sep 15, 2014 · CGR gives the Kouba Climbing Nut Sets a full test to see if value means performance. I'm still pretty new at trad climbing and I was a hex sceptic until the other day - I went climbing somewhere different to my usual haunt - a rather exposed cliff where the erosion had scooped out the most marvellous hex placements - absolutely bomber! I've recently started trad climbing as well and am using DMM nut set 3 (includes a set of nuts, offsets and hexes). Equip yourself with top gear from Black Diamond and DMM. Tricams have a reputation for being fiddly and slow to place, thus people buy cams instead. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search In reply to benmason: In the states you often see climbers carrying mainly cams and only a few nuts, maybe a maximum of 10. Standard Lead Belay techniques are used in both sport and trad. If that doesn't work either, hold your nut tool under the nut and hit it with a big hex. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes to fit different cracks and offer versatile protection. Sale price $29. With a subtly asymmetrical cross-section, flat sides and slight end-wise taper, they offer three different widths when turned on their axes and another when placed end-wise. 6. Let us know what else you want to see!6kN Nut Tests: “Passive pro” is a subcategory that includes climbing nuts or stoppers, hexes, and Tricams—basically anything designed to catch you by wedging itself in place in the event of a fall. Jan 8, 2024 · Write for UKH . Double up 2-7. g. Going back to your point on cams not being necessary below VS. . In stock. Obviously this resulted in carrying more equipment so was heartily encouraged by gear manufacturers. Sep 22, 2009 · As a result hexes have become forever connected to a class of climbers ranging from bumbly beginners up to VS punters and hence, are a bit uncool. Hex Nuts Hex nuts are a common fastener with a hexagon exterior. Saved Content. The judgement we need to select a placements for Hexes and Tri cams is very similar to selecting a nut placement. buymeacoffee. Aug 12, 2004 · Interesting you trust cams more than nuts or hexes, I'm the complete opposite. Easy to rack and place in bottlenecks, Hexes come equipped with durable, galvanized steel cables. They offer some camming ability in parallel cracks. Into my sport climbing but now i want something a little bit more uncertain! TRAD climbing!!!! now i know that a wall nut is just a passive safety device and a CAM is strong like bull!! buy wall nuts or so much cheaper plus you can but them in packs like beer!!. There are usually more options for placing cams than nuts, so it’s better to place nuts when you can and save the cams for later. Usually one or two hits and it rattles loose. 95. Also have a few micros of offsets & stopper/rock/nuts. video-----Although "Rock Climb" will have more than 100 videos (7 hours+ of content), the pro Passive camming. Because these wedges don’t utilize springs or moving parts to actively redistribute the force created by a fall, they’re considered “passive. Nut and Hexes Ranging in size from the thickness of a matchstick to the size of your clenched fist, nuts (also called chocks, wires or stoppers) and hexes are inexpensive pieces of trad protection. See every brand, compare every detail, and find the best price. Hexes are large, hollow, hexagonal metal tubes that can be placed in either a passive orientation—simply wedged into a crack like a nut—or in an active orientation, in which case the cable or sling of the hex extends from either its right or left side. Curved nuts have a concave face on one side and a convex face on the other. " Nuts Buying Guide. Nov 3, 2011 · Camming a hex in a vertical crack takes practice and time. Don't be afraid to hit them hard with your nut tool; they're very durable. Good places to stand and place and fiddle with a hex are good places to break an ankle. In other word s, the harder you pull, the tighter it holds. Up until about a month ago I had to borrow other people's gear if I wanted to use cams. What do you guys suggest nuts or hexes which brands and what sizes are most commonly used so I know where to start buying equipment. Here’s what you need to know about these essential tools: 1. Cams are quicker to place – great if you’re getting pumped and need to place gear quickly. I will be picking up one to fill the gap between by DMM's and sets of nuts. Fair enough in a horizontal break, then it's cams or tricams, otherwise its always a whacking great hex or a nice snug nut that makes me feel safe. They do though admittedly have a less superior sling setup than DMM Torque Nuts, but at least they are slung which is important to not having them rattle loose from rope movement like the wired hexes In the climbing world, your choice of climbing protection devices matters a lot. If this doesn't work, tap it from below with your nut tool. For unknown long climbs . Hexes are so cheap now. How to Choose Climbing Nuts, Stoppers and Chocks. May 29, 2020 · Hexes: Popular before the advent of cams, hexes are essentially hexagonal nuts. Nov 23, 2016 · Hey Matt, if you are going up the learning curve in trad climbing, I highly recommend you buying hexes. Smaller than a standard nut, it's used in thin cracks and old piton scars. I have a friend who climbs in JTree a lot, and he swears to them so presumably there is a geological feature there that eats them as well. Aug 20, 2018 · Visit our website http://www. Jan 21, 2022 · Neil Gresham gives us a masterclass in the basics of placing nuts as Trad climbing protection. Offset Nuts: Rather than curved surfaces, these feature a wedge with a top-to-bottom taper and a front-to-back taper. When I started trad climbing, I couldn't afford the cams, so I led exclusively on nuts, hexes, and tricams for probably 40 of my first 50 pitches on gear. As ascensions become steeper and higher, it will be necessary to provide yourself with extra protection by wedging nuts into the cracks in the rock, therefore affording more Nov 12, 2019 · As an emergency extender the dyneema works better (basically the previous point) if extending a nut. I love my torque nuts, but in the end it's best if you're familiar with as many types of gear as possible, so collect a variety (Including hexes which many people won't/don't know how to A range of 'Nuts and Hexes Climbing Equipment' from The Climbers Shop and Joe Brown Shops Oct 15, 2019 · Having pieces for strictly bailing seems dumb. Most commonly, a carabiner will be used to join the hex to the climbing rope by means of a loop of webbing, cord or a cable which is part of the hex. Learn the skills to stay safe and have confidence when climbin Shop for climbing hexes at Rock+Run for all your climbing equipment needs. Nuts are available in different shapes to help the climber find the best fit for a given crack. Nuts and hexes all have a curved side, this is for camming them in, a fall will cam them in harder. I will not be setting a top rope just off these nuts or hexes but just to incorporate them. hexes are lighter than cams and harder to place on lead as anything other than large nuts so they are a good lightweight option to have on hand for extra anchor pieces, and when you are setting up and anchor they are far more versatile than cams and can be placed actively or passively, can be slung around a boulder or chockstone Oct 31, 2024 · This review focuses on climbing nuts used for protecting traditional free climbing routes as well as for aid and big wall routes. Sep 16, 2011 · In reply to derms: Seems a bit of an "apple versus Pears" type question. you could probably get a set of dmm torque nuts for double the cost of the cord for reslinging. I think the usefulness of hexes is very dependant on where you climb. Place the nut with the cable facing in the direction of pull if you were to take a fall, which is generally down and slightly out. Although large nuts like these have been superseded to a certain extent by camming devices, there are nevertheless many instances where camming devices are not as secure as a well placed "Hex", and every climber should know how to use them. The document has moved here. Compare their sizes on nut comparison charts. The most popular gear for protecting trad climbs these days are camming devices. Sep 14, 2007 · Prefer Nuts when the placement is good and quick. Therefore we've been thinking on buying maybe one big Hex or blue DMM's torque nut just in case we might need something so big for the route. Have also used hexes a belay stations to save cams and used hexes to bail off routes in emergency. Dyneema comes in pretty colours! (aside from aesthetics, it's actually useful for grabbing the one you are looking for first time). Latest Gear Gear News Gear Reviews Competitions Latest Deals Product Videos Jul 31, 2023 · Anchor Building Materials: Stoppers, Cams, Nuts, Hexes, Tricams, And Big Bros. $12. Climbing Anchors Ltd (“Climbing Anchors”, “we”, “us”, “our”) is committed to protecting your privacy. Moved Permanently. Still love the hexes for clanking up the old-school 5. All your essential rock climbing nuts, hexes, nut removers, and accessories for your rock climbing kit bag. com/jbmountainOr buy a Sling Mountain T Shirt?! https://teespring. e. A micro nut is used where no other protection will fit. uk or call us on 01479 861256This film is part of a series of 17 films. Sep 6, 2013 · The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) or a standard nut. au or at a Climbing Anchors retail store. Micro Nuts. This protection, also called pro, is placed in cracks and fissures as you climb up, and then removed, or cleaned, when you’re done, so all you leave on the rock is a few chalk marks. Also I have yet to be on an Alpine climb where I couldn't use strictly slung horns or nuts to bail. It's hard to beat a textbook hex placement, and they do not walk into a crack like a cam. They are manufactured by several firms, with a range of Sep 5, 2010 · If these are hexes that you want to use on your rack then suppose it'll cost you 10 or 15 quid for the tape/cord. Easily compare different types of climbing gear! Including cams, nuts, hexes, and more! Compare different climbing nuts. Just use the sideways long end of the nut tool and smack the hex as hard as you can from the wire or sling side like your hitting something with a hammer. If you already have some cams i'd definately choose 4 Torque nuts over 1 extra cam. Initially made from actual machine nuts with the internal thread drilled out, they have undergone several stages of development in the last few decades, resulting in the wonderful colour-coded super-strong designs we ha Jan 8, 2024 · In the late 1980s into the 1990s in UK climbing, there was a decisive move away from a mix of individually racked hexes of all sizes & medium nuts on cord towards using only larger hexes, plus nuts on wire (with quickdraws) due to ease of use. vsz royaig nmwnbc tlxmw jzhp jee ilnf uoumsn yopyq liac velnb gwd grtjk dgnbv mdvd