Best climbing webbing anchor reddit. And yes we are scared of falling.

Best climbing webbing anchor reddit I learned on a Blake's hitch, moved the Blake's to a split tail and recently got my hands on a Zigzag. For mountaineering it will ultimately depend if you’re building a full belay with 3 anchors or not, you might just be moving together. Rappel anchors, hasty harnesses, improvised litter, play tug of war when you’re bored, etrier ladder, hang yourself, tie up your boyfriend, anchor point for a rope system where you want a mechanical assist, vehicle recovery (be careful with that one and know the load rating), secure loads on vehicles, and much much more. The webbing or cordalette used to make the anchor should never go through the wires of the nuts as has been done here. If you clip both strands, the webbing could fail in one place outside the limiter knots and the whole anchor would fail. But to surf maaaan this webbing is incredible. Is there any reason - aside from cost - to exclusively carry alpine draws over quick draws? Looking for good material on specifically sport climbing anchors (bolted routes), book, videos, blogs etc I'm a beginner at this, never did multipitching and I want to get educated! (I see that the Craig leubbet and Jonh long books are very recommended but I'm not looking forward to spend 20€ on a book that is mostly trad and alpine anchors Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 57 votes and 35 comments Of course I'd also want a second anchor point for redundancy in case the natural anchor fails, so a cordlette or extra-long sling might be necessary for building the anchor anyway. I am using a webbing sling loop in a basket (pic attached) to move the ascender far enough away from my body that I can use the tail of the rope to body thrust up the line (and auto tend slack). Climbing Webbing Most trad climbers take along additional sections of webbing to create custom-length slings for extending or building an anchor. This is for a solo project, I wont get into the details but im doing some urban climbing and just need some protection while climbing a tower. This will hold your webbing together. I got 150' of 1" webbing and it's cheap. 5m generates ~2. Most times I use the webbing trick I described to jalpp: "slip about a 4 foot length of 1" tubular webbing over your static line and tie your masterpoint where the webbing is. In that case, use two quick-draws, lockers on the chains and revolving lockers for the rope. A knotted sling will still hold 15+ kN. I trusted it, but I was curious what other thoughts were out there on non-climbing certified webbing, like tow straps. Climbing Anchors by John Long 3rd ed, page 173: Connect the rope to the anchors with two opposed carabiners, at least one of which is locking. 1. The area is known for low angle slab climbing. The double fisherman's is easy to untie, but it doesn't hold in webbing. While it wouldn't be my first choice, I'd expect hollow 16mm webbing to work for a third hand backup to a descender, though I'm sure choice of knot is important. A PAS is perfectly fine for use as an anchor, but so is a clove hitch. Cordelette (6mm): Pros: My favorite. Guy said he was new to climbing outside, and wants a versatile anchor setup. com In terms anchor-building materials, you’re good to use cordelette, webbing, nylon, dynema, or the rope. Otherwise I use a cordo or double length sling. Utilizing the rope in the anchor also uses up a lot of rope, which may be an issue on longer pitches. You can read about the ADT here . To get some tips on equalization as well, check out the book Climbing Anchors by Long/Middendorf, although it's geared more towards anchors for multipitch trad/aid climbing. Bulk webbing is sold by the foot, in spools or in sections. I don't know where to find the washers and I'm also a bit nervous about the structural integrity of the webbing after the screw rips a hole through it. But also a cordlette can be cut up and used to make rappels/abseils if needed. 17/1. This same anchor could be build with ~6 ft of webbing and a 15 ft section of static cord. The normal progression of climbing is toprope and bouldering. I have 1 inch tubular webbing and 7 mm accessory cord. There are I think 2 total 2 bolt anchors - the beginning of the first bolt ladder and big sandy ledge. Given that you're supposed to replace any soft gear after 5 years, I assume that I need to buy some runners. It might be 90 feet of 5. You're right about the ratings. I am considering the following setup, for climbing single pitch crags of 8-15 meters on top rope (either tree anchors or bolted anchors): 60 meter static (aka semi-dynamic) rope, double figure-8 to the anchor Petxl micro traxion with prusikk backup. But to really enjoy it you need a lot of tension. That's not what I'm talking about. I see a lot of pictures of people screwing through it with weird little domed washer things. Slings are pretty cheap as far as gear goes, so why buy not a couple of lengths and go experiment? Start with a 60 and 120 nylon from really any reputable brand, and maybe a sewn 240 for anchor building. I’m not sure of the routes names. 24 kN force while toproping the anchor would be just about at its breaking point. The main situation that people make anchors for is the internet wanking that comes over any specific picture of an anchor that is released. I've seen various configurations of leashing to clip in with and I'm wondering if anyone has any thoughts? I've seen guys backsplice a line and add a carabeener, and other using climbing webbing loops. Sources: all of this is very accessible (i. The anchor to start the last pitch is also 3 bomber pitons. The home of Climbing on reddit. If its an accessible anchor just use opposing draws (one made of two lockers is safest) as long as the rope isn't rubbin over an edge too bad. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. ) Posted by u/2N654Tog - 3 votes and 31 comments Cordlette is very useful for multi pitch climbing of any sort as you can typically use one to equalize 3 anchors. It's better than creating an overhand on a bight with all the strands with your cordellette because it allows it to equalize better when your anchor pulls on way or another. Pretty much every other fixed anchor is beyond dogshit. A static rope allows you to connect and extend those components, wrap boulders/threads, and transition to rappelling quickly and safely. I'm looking to start practicing and building top rope anchors and was wondering what lengths of webbing would be handy to have to cover most applications. I posted this above, but in the gunks there really aren't many times when adding more tat to a bad anchor is the best choice. Read the book "Climbing Anchors" by John Long Get a rope backpack because it's going to be a lot more comfortable. I don't think we really need much more info. $40 on sale. The nylon won out by a huge margin and it equalized much better. Get more webbing (assuming 1" tubular) and a length of 8mm cord. At last, someone finally located my college climbing partner, Suicide Dave! I still remember the one (and only) time I let him set the top rope. I went to an outdoor shop and said I wanted cord for a top rope anchor cordelette and an prussik knot. That's why rap rings/chains exist. Posted by u/bearbreeder - 46 votes and 40 comments There are plenty of cases where a bolted anchor is designed to be anchored with two draws in opposition (most sport anchors) but not all are, and in those cases you need to have some understanding of what is necessary for an anchor to be safe. And i'm near touching in the middle. Find the middle point of the first two thirds. Reply reply Best Use Cases: Flat webbing is commonly used in applications that require higher strength, such as climbing harnesses, load-bearing straps, cargo straps, and seat belts. 9kn peak force, or 650lbs force on the anchor Assuming perfect equalization each anchor takes ~325 lbs peak force This is ~75% of the assumed breaking strength of each leg of the anchor You generally want anchors to experience no more than 50% of assumed max load Whatever you want it to. That's probably what I When I went climbing this past weekend, a friend of mine tied a rope to a tree to use as a personal anchor while he approached the cliff face to create our master point. What's the best way to build a self-equalizing 3-point anchor, with all three points receiving equal weight distribution? [John Long promotes a 3-point equalette, but it doesn't seem to be distributed evenly. Crypto The angle subtended at the central anchor by the nylon slings/webbing to the roof beams, is almost exactly 90 degrees (though it looks more in the photos) which means that the force on each of the two roof-beam anchors will not exceed 70% of the weight of the climbing wall, according to the best information I could find. 12 votes, 36 comments. There is a high risk of cutting your rope if you thread it directly through the bolt anchor. now you have webbing (slings) webbing (slackline) rap rings ( connect the slackline to anchors) and carabiners for clipping it all together / prim tensioning. Posted by u/Violent_Testicles - 6 votes and 12 comments Natural anchors far back from the edge you will need lots of 1" webbing or static rope. Equalized webbing anchors is always best, however if you have an established anchor point, on pretty much a flat wall, I don't see too much of a problem with it my only concern is that the biners don't lock. "You only use 4 locking biners! what! I use 10!" to "You use locking 'biners! What a pussy!" I will bring along a 20' piece of webbing for natural anchors where I want to sling a rock. Lots of climbs share a common anchor that really shouldn’t. Some people use 5mm but it just looks freaky, especially running over sharp edges. Like 4-5m high. however if we consider the anchor system as a whole, (e. I put cardboard between tree and sling, and simply lift the cardboard with a really long stick. Uses: Tie-in, general anchor use (will work splendidly with slippery webbing with minimal jamming), end-of-rope knot for hauling. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. Spend it for peace of mind. Also try to minimize the amount of biners and webbing that you use; less points of failure, although I would certainly assume that that anchor wouldn't fail any time soon. 10 votes, 12 comments. I keep a 25ft bit of webbing around for when I want to sling a tree way back from the edge, either to be clipped to that while I set the anchor or as part of the anchor itself. The CE tags on the webbing say 0639, which date them to 1999, source. I'm definitely using two tapes or doubling up for these anchors. For bolted stations it's more convenient to just use a double-length sling (either premade or your own webbing one). Crypto If there are rappel anchors simul rapping is usually just riskier for no reason. I'd like it to be able to take up to 100 lbs at least. Thank you. 396 votes, 207 comments. Both are static, the shop employee told me it's better not to use static for top rope anchors. e. 00 with tubular webbing and $149. This anchor is equalized, but fails all other Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - No votes and 28 comments it's 1. With your way, using the webbing, I use another piece of webbing or quickdraw to temporarily attach myself to the master point. Needless to my climbing partner and I educated his buddy who talked a real good game but thought 30 feet of 3/4inch webbing overhand-knotted to a bomber chain-link fence post was well within acceptable practice. I would hope that you have a guide though for a bit to learn about all the basics of sport climbing. Build your webbing anchor, but instead of tying a water knot to join the webbing, tie two loops that almost join. 9mm though. This weekend I was climbing a pillar (the one on the Eagle Lake Buttress traverse, if you are familiar with it). true. If its crappy near the top of the cliff face it can be safer to set the bolts further back but into something solid. A rope doesn't move while rapping. I've been sailing on tallships for about a year now and am about to make an investment in my own climbing harness. It does when you pull it. Just go out and try it. Also, best practice would be to tie limiter knots above your MP, but in reality for a rap anchor it's fine. This is when you can actually factor-two your personal anchor and snap a biner. When building top rope anchors off of natural protection (trees and boulders), do you usually just use two anchor points or three? I took a class building top rope anchors, and all the setups would consist of two pretty good anchor points, like a couple big trees. In most of the trapps, the anchors are well established enough that any impromptu looking anchors with sketchy tat are probably unnecessary stations and should be avoided (or in many cases will be removed). If I am sport climbing and am only doing a few laps on a route, the bolt are evenly spaced, equal, and solid, I will use two quickdraws. is and ADT as the force on the anchors is multiplied Anchor-----Anchor | | has normal force on the anchor (second anchor is for redundancy) so, long story short, the second anchor adds redundancy in case of an anchor failure(yes, it can happen even if super rare), and doesn't sacrifice strength of the system With 30m of rope out an 80kg climber falling . No matter where you are, its going to be about the same: some cordelette, some webbing, a few lockers and non lockers, and either the wisdom to recognize your own limitations in evaluating anchors or the ballsiness not to care. 24 kN So, if a climber dies from experiencing a 10. 12 votes, 20 comments. It will be part of any respectable book on climbing and any respectable class on climbing knots. You seem to have questions that would be best answered in person at the crag, rather than on reddit. Lather, rinse, repeat. Always inspect your equipment, and remember that $30 in dyneema isn't worth cheaping out on, and nylon webbing is probably fine for the toys in the dungeon. Mar 3, 2020 · If you had no gear but the knowledge you have now, what would be the best assortment of gear to have for a basic top rope anchor set up at the local crag? I'm fairly new to climbing but want to get my own gear to not rely on my friends' stuff. I am rigging a hammock, and I am using 1/2 inch webbing (soft, possibly hollow). There are some bolt hangers that are designed to be used to rappel from (examples are round stock glue in bolts or Metolius rap ring bolts) but that requires Hi all, I'm fairly new to climbing, but I got a set of older BD quickdraws from a friend. Hi r/climbing-I have come seeking your knowledge of knots. So i am only going to bother looking up sources if someone specifically requests them. It is referred to as a "basket hitch", and it is the standard way to use a circular sling. 80 with the flat webbing. Though, if you're using a sling for an anchor that you haven't been treating well or inspecting, then it's kinda your fault if you then assume it's definitely safe to use as an anchor. $11 gets you 30 feet of nylon webbing. See full list on climbtallpeaks. Anchor points are really high not to touch slackling in the middle toh. So let's go back to our calculated 17kN on the anchor. Don't let the myriad of answers here confuse you. Use that "combo" anchor to bring up your second. All my draws are on a shoulder sling. I am looking to tie a loop knot into the line to run a biner through, and so I went with the alpine butterfly as it shouldn't lock up. Using climbing spec webbing for slacklining could be less comfortable and potentially unsafe. The webbing is primarily for long anchors like trees. Hey climbit, I have about 250' of mil spec climbing webbing and I want to chop it up into various lengths I can use to build natural anchors (bought… If it's a clear path to the edge, i walk to the edge but leave the belay device (guide mode) at the tree. It was used like any other webbing would be in anchor building, and is rated for greater weight (10,000 lbs minimum breaking strength) though it wasn't certified by any organization. Occasionally I will need to anchor on trees more than ~20ft… I personally use nylon webbing for my personal anchor. Double up 1" tubular webbing (mil-spec is cheap), tie a knot like a cordelette anchor. With knots the webbing is only good to around 9/10 kn. Just replace the webbing for a couple bucks. If you buy static rope you can get a 60m length or just have a shop cut you a length from the spool. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Bring an end through the two webbing loops until you are at this point. For top roping, you can buy about 40 ft. When I topped out, I found his piece of webbing tied (overhand knot) around the base of a muddy rhododendron. A common scenario might be a couple of quick links on the bolt hangers, a few feet of webbing, and a rap ring (or two). Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 1 vote and 23 comments I would recommend the method in the first video. -as you know, canyons are terrible on your gear, canyoneering ropes survive this better -static ropes may or may not keep stress off of sketchy anchors 18 votes, 43 comments. That way you get redundancy at the loop and an extra protective "sheath" over your knot. At the anchors you will want at least two bolts and hopefully 3 if you can. Best methods are either bring a long some static rope or a long piece of webbing and/or cord. They sold me 5mm cord for the prussic and 7mm for the anchor. That is to say, if you reach an anchor and want to set up a rappel, connect yourself directly to the anchor with a dyneema sling so you can untie yourself from the rope and begin setting up the rappel, then somehow find yourself with the anchor at waist level and slip and fall, that is a factor 1 fall directly on a dyneema sling and is a huge Posted by u/snappyboi112 - 1 vote and no comments A tree is a completely solid anchor assuming it is about the width of your calf. This is a solid set up for me and allows me to do any anchoring I need to. if it is, you did something else very wrong. Old school routes, bolts, anchors and practices. I know and understand SERENE. Kind of depends on the area but a length of 50' webbing should be plenty. Was gonna use 2 slings to maintain contact as I climb, sort of leap frogging them, idk what thats called. A rope is going to reduce pretty much any fall to 5-7 kN. Yell off belay. The appropriate length of webbing can vary based on the specific routes you're climbing, the nature of the anchors, and your personal preferences. I have draws, static line, webbing, locking carabiniers, cordellettes, etc, for anchor building - and know how to use them safely. To be honest the lack of knowledge from the employees has got me wondering. If you have other suggestions I am open It's quite another to remember it 100% of the time in real life, when anchors need tweaking or rope needs adjusting. Sport anchors are usually two bolts with rap rings. In this case if one strand of the doubled up webbing failed, then there's be no dynamic shock to the anchor so it passes this part of SERENE. Seems like this is not actually equalized at all, because the goal of an equalized anchor is for the force to be distributed equally among the anchors in the event of a fall. You already have some webbing. 82 votes, 66 comments. "the anchor") Then the anchor experiences twice the load of one side of the rope. ) wikipedia, forums, books. I love my canyoneering rope and pull cord as opposed to climbing rope because: -Weight and size matter when you are squeezing through slot canyons, and packing and hiking to the next rappel. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 5 votes and 17 comments haha true that, climbing with someone with DIY gear. For example, at Otter Cliff in Acadia National Park Maine USA, the park service has installed some large stainless steel eyebolts made out of 5/8" or 3/4" stock. Emergency Repairs: Keep some webbing on hand for emergency repairs, such as patching up gear or creating makeshift straps. Rap is a common abbreviation for rappel. Same setup but sometimes i choose to build the anchor using the climbing rope. Without extending your anchors over the edge, you're putting a ton of wear on your dynamic climbing Webbing is great as long as it isn't over a sharp edge. Definitely using sewn slings for most things. 12 votes, 27 comments. Tubular Webbing: Best way to build gear practice board for building/cleaning anchors? So I want a way to practice building and cleaning anchors and whatnot in my garage. I suggest John Long's anchor book for more of these options and descriptions of when they should(n't) be used. So: first tree > webbing > cord with webbing sheath and tied masterpoint > webbing > second tree. Would cut off most of that tat and leave the 1 or two best slings and add one of my own. If you haven't killed yourself climbing sport routes yet you should be OK. Posted by u/redfont - 14 votes and 16 comments Same here. They all have pros and cons, but all are safe when used properly. I have seen plenty of top rope areas that you have to build anchors 20+ feet away from the cliff, especially when ice climbing. The issue isn't safety - your party will all will be fine, and if someone else comes along, well, imo they should be able to figure out what happened and not reuse it. He tethered himself onto this anchor rope using a prusik knot connected to a carabiner which was clipped onto his harness belay loop. Use the rest of the webbing for a second anchor leg. 20m or so of static rope might be a more sensible purchase. It has two glue-in anchors on the back side and two newer bolted anchors on the front side. When you climb, you need the anchor to withstand a factor 2 fall. Friction generated by a moving rope is what weakens the sling. Learn Basic Climbing Techniques: If you're interested in climbing, you can use the tubular webbing to practice basic climbing techniques like ascending and descending. Tubular webbing is significantly cheaper which I think accounts for its popularity in the US, but in general, yes, I agree with your assessment. There is a difference between an anchor for abseilling and an anchor for climbing. Easy to add a finger size cam backup in the crack below the knot jam. For toprope anchors with disparate placements: Generally I use webbing to extend pieces by tying it in a loop with a water knot, then clipping one end to the placement and the other to one of the strands of your cordelette. If a spare locking carabiner isn't available, be sure the gates are opposed, and add a third carabinerI have done my share of toproping, and whenever a locking carabiner is unavailable, I always Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 4 votes and 25 comments If you are making an IDEAS anchor with three points, between two belay stations you've just burned 6 lockers. " A PAS has separate webbing loops sewed in series, whereas a daisy chain is a single piece of webbing looped and then sewn at several point. Also, strength is a lot less important for a rappel anchor than for a lead climbing anchor, since the forces at the anchor will be much lower. Edit: "You can build an anchor with just your climbing rope and a knot that yields two loops (like the double figure-eight. Look at the second edition of "climbing anchors" by John Long. There are many other ways to build your anchor including using draws, a quad, independent slings, a sliding x, etc. An old towel cut in half as tree protection and youre in business. Business, Economics, and Finance. For your personal anchor, a factor 2 fall (you're standing above where you're clipped as far as your PAS can reach then fall) can go up to 17 kN, meaning serious risk of breaking your personal anchor. But since they don't reach past the edge, the webbing is fine. For top rope anchors i'll always use lockers because they tend to swing around a lot and you dont have someone there keeping an eye on the anchor at all times. Crypto Yeah it was a bit bulky, just wasting time on a non climbing afternoon. I am a new recreational climber climbing MRS. But this could cost a bunch of money. Lead a pitch, anchor yourself in with slings (easiest), PAS, the end of the rope or whatever you decide to use, bring the follower up. The pillar is about 10 square feet and flat on top. The take home message, don't take a 30m whipper on top rope with a static rope and a static belay, and your knotted sling anchor will be fine. You might also consider using a canyoneering style anchor where a tensionless anchor is made with webbing and the rope goes to a quick link master point where the rope connects. We have some pitches here in Squamish that near 60m. The extension was, well, an extension No Extension in SERENE refers to the shock of one part of the anchor if another part fails. I put that in the cart for ~$184. Likereally high. Are daisy chains any good for The loop of webbing that joins the two legs is loaded in three directions at a pretty bad angle, this can multiply the forces on the anchor. I second the recommendation to seek out instruction. All anchors strive to be SRENE: Safe, Redundant, Equalized, Non-Extending. It's also used in situations where the webbing needs to lie flat against a surface, such as in backpack straps or webbing belts. Posted by u/spunkybull - 1 vote and 14 comments The best option would be to bring quick links (rated for climbing!) that you can attach directly to the bolts to then thread your rope through or use a couple carabiners to do the same. Rope is more abrasion resistant. Only way down is the rope stung over the top of the spire and a climber on each side single strand rappelling on one strand using the weight of the other climber to keep the rope in place. EDIT: also don't fall off the cliff while setting your toprope anchor. Nice looking knot jam on the left. It handles abrasion much better than webbing and gives you more options for equalising anchors etc. Learn how to tie a water knot and you can have a great anchor spending about as much as one cam. On spires like this there are no anchors on top. What crag are you looking at? Other great anchors may include things like 1 locker on a piece of webbing, tension hitched around a tree. Pages 154 - 158 deal with off axis loading of cordelette anchors with both nylon and high tensile tape. Sometimes all you are paying for is the name, testing, and supply chain to deliver it, but the hammock straps I've handled are way thinner and lighter than your typical 1" climb-spec webbing and would almost certainly break at a much lower load and should not be used for climbing anchors. The advantage of this method over the one shown in your second video is that with the basket hitch, the tension of the line is supported by 4 strands of anchor webbing, compared to 2 strands with the other method. . Specific recommendations for maximum length can vary depending on the brand and model of webbing. In the case of toproping off two draws, clip them from different sides of the rope so both gates are not facing the same direction. (Wire is too sharp) Each piece of pro should have a carabiner for the webbing to slide safely through. Monolithic anchors are OK - depending on the size. I will recommend Crag Daddy by Patagonia Get a 6mm or bigger accessory cord and learn how to tie a quad anchor, purcell-prusik, and auto block. Better to put the wear on a cheaper piece of gear and save my static. If I, say, dropped my usual nylon cord, I think I'd reach for the 16mm nylon tubular webbing before skinnier dyneema. If setting up a toprope on webbing or cordalette, the two biners attached to the anchor for the rope to run though should be facing opposite directions NEVER use any other knots to join slings/flat webbing. Thinking of doing some kind of peg board with hangers in there but I wasn't sure of the best way to go about this. Threading rope directly through the bolt anchors is NOT the best thing you could have done, and if the people you're with told you differently, you shouldn't listen to them. For a traditional anchor with, say, 3 points you can use a different sliding x where you take the outside strands and create that twist to create the center point. I have experience setting up TR anchors on trees and bolts. Especially any fixed anchors on the zig zags (thankfully you have an REI climbing sections worth of fixed gear below you. g. If you only put the biner through one strand in the middle (as pictured) the webbing could fail in one place inside the limiters and the whole anchor fails. You don't need 2 trees for redundancy as long as the anchor itself is redundant. Ultimately, learning the one-handed clove hitch and using a few med-large biners at your belay for the clove is the tried-and-true method for quick, dynamic personal anchors using the climbing rope. Climbing spec webbing, being less stretchy and more focused on strength, may not be suitable for slacklining due to its lack of dynamic properties. It is maybe slightly bulky, but I haven't found it to be an issue. There is never sense in cluttering your anchor with more than you need. The only thing I'd use webbing for is rap/bail anchors I plan to leave behind, and even then I tend toward rated accessory cord. I had the unfortunate experience of climbing on one back in the day. I recently picked up the Petzl dual Connect Adjust and while I've only used it a handful of times I'm already a huge fan, it is probably the best personal anchor I've ever used. It depends on how the set up is. Because of webbings profile several common knots work a lot less well in it. Also any recommendations and advice you guys and gals have would is definitely appreciated. In terms anchor-building materials, you’re good to use cordelette, webbing, nylon, dynema, or the rope. Divide your rope into thirds. If its a gear/natural anchor, take a class or get an experienced person to show you. rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. Connect it with a quicklink. To try to answer your actual question, the two main types of rock anchors are (1) gear anchors, and (2) "natural" or "wrap" anchors where you tie a sling/rope/webbing around some object (tree, chicken head, boulder, etc) that's big/strong enough to handle the fall force. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. If I am on TR for multiple projects I use static line primarily, but a length of webbing for a second or third route. Webbing is really only good for slinging trees and boulders, and other than specialist high strength anchors isn't really used that much any more. If your anchor is too busy it just makes it more dangerous in the long-run because the person cleaning can get easily flustered by a crowded anchor. It's the safest and best. Thats expensive and a waste of resources. This will eliminate the need for nylon slings, prusik cord, and a PAS. Plus it cost less than five bucks for the webbing. O&O is referring to two biners that the toprope runs through. then sport and maybe traditional if you want to. The way I set up tree anchors is I use 40 ft of webbing (I prefer webbing to static rope because the webbing is flat and won't abrade the tree as much and cause less erosion of the bark) wrapped around the trees 3 times and the ends tied together with a water knot. Many anchors in J-Tree are extremely far from the edge and need extending. He let me take the first climb, and I barely scrapped up the route. 7 face climbing with the top out being (a fucking hike) 30 feet of literal class 3 walking. Here are some guidelines to consider: Anchor Building and Rappel Considerations: The length of webbing you carry should be sufficient to build strong and secure rappel anchors. An equalette works well as a self-equalizing 4-point anchor. If there aren't bolted anchors available, you'll need pro to build your own. You are aware of this, right? When you abseil you are seldom going to significantly increase the load on your anchor. You In regards to toprope anchor building: I have both a 60ft static line and 60ft webbing. of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. Now if I were in a situation where I needed to construct an anchor from only these resources (two locking biners and a PAS), here is how I would do it. The twist is needed if you want the anchor to be redundant. Love the Jive Ass Anchors. Now take in rope. Used mainly for sport - cleaning routes and on multipitch raps. The grigri2 can handle ropes down to 8. Cut some of the webbing and slip the cord inside so that the webbing acts as an edge protector. Here, if the climber were to fall, the entirety of the force would be on one of the anchors, and then only if it failed would the second anchor take the force. I know bolts are rare/non-existent at DL. 5" polypropylene webbing. That anchor is fine. I only carry webbing while climbing for use in bail anchors, but for canyoneering where it is super common I would use the 1in tubular webbing. 66=10. And yes we are scared of falling. Alpine Butterfly/Alpine-Loop (ABOK #1053): Pros: Completely multidirectional (will handle non-linear or spreading loads with ease), generally easy to untie (if it jams, wiggling one of the loops will free it), easy 3 - Racking for climbing I have all my smaller cams on my right first gear loop (gates out because anything else is heresy) usually up to a c4 number 1, with nuts and c4 size 2+ on my left first gear loop, and anchor/belay gear on the back two gear loops. Not being experienced enough to properly swage cable at the custom length, I might use the chain used in chain anchors. After that you need 3 locking carabiners and a sling. It is tied in a loop with a double fisherman's (plenty of tail) and girth hitched to my hard points, with shelves made by overhand knots. Some areas may have bolted anchors that are easily accessible, in which case you'll just need slings and some more biners. Climb up higher, place a bomber piece (or two), go back to your stance and use the climbing rope to incorporate that higher piece into your "less strong" anchor. I mean, you'll probably be fine. I am looking to make a pas in order to free up other gear I currently use. So the weight of the climber and the balancing force that opposes the climber allowing him to hang on the end of the rope. A quad works well as a self-equalizing 2-point anchor. pzr iaidgl ivbm lbwlky wsagz nmgqfi mmrcnx land giwtus dwwox fypbx iupz kjx yiuz fsgtp