Climbing atc how to use. The Brake Bar Rack is a type of ATC used in climbing.

Climbing atc how to use The ATC is ideal for three types of climbing. The ATC XP: another belay device from Black Diamond inspired by the classic Dec 12, 2022 · Guide-style ATC device (I use a Grigri for belaying during the climb, so the ATC mostly stays on the Oh-Shit-Kit) Double-length Dyneema slings (120cm) Note: Although the small knife is not used in this article, it’s still a valuable piece of equipment to carry on long routes, useful for tasks like cutting sun-bleached slings off anchors or A. belay. It can be dually used for belaying a rock climbing partner down or used to rappel solo. Shoppers should recognize that none of the active ABDs can rappel on two strands of rope, nor can the passive ClickUp+, Black Diamond ATC Pilot, or Mammut Smart 2. Universal Belay Advice: Pay Attention The original ATC belay device worked just fine, but it didn’t provide enough friction when used with thin ropes, such as the 8mm ones that people use for ice climbing. It secures a climber as they are going up or down the wall. It can be used for belaying, rappeling, and belaying from the top of a pitch. ATC Guide Or Reverso) Intro to Climbing Class In this one-hour class, you will learn the basic skills needed to start rope climbing: how to secure your harness, tie a figure 8 follow through knot and complete your safety checks. Both these devices can be used for multipitch climbing. The Brake Bar Rack is a type of ATC used in climbing. The Black Diamond ATC Sport is identical to the ATC XP, but with only one slot. and learn how to lead belay using a tube-style belay device also known as an ATC. Feb 22, 2020 · Guide plates are very similar to the tubular belay device with one minor alteration - there are two attachment points (one large, one small). Brake Bar Rack. 7 to 10. ATC stands for “Air Traffic Controller”, which is a tube-like belay device manufactured by Black Diamond. In this video Kerry Lee shows you how to correctly set up your belay using an ATC. Jun 16, 2017 · The load-strand direct (LSD) lower offers a simple, smooth, easy-to-set-up lower when belaying from above with a "guide mode" device. Apr 13, 2025 · The ATC Guide is hands down one of the best devices on the market. We really expected the newer devices with friction grooves to blow this old school model away but we were impressed with how the ATC pays out climbing rope as well, and maybe better, than many of the newer models. The ATC empowers the user to control the speed of descent from slow to fast with ease, and can be used to completely stop the descent in either a rappel or climb. Keep the climber close to your heart, set up your lead belay the right way. The ATC is the second smallest and lightest belay device tested, the first being the Petzl Verso, which is more expensive. Another device might be used for multi-pitch sport and trad climbing and anytime a rappel is necessary. GriGri2 pays out slack very easily when you get the hand positioning right, makes the falls/hanging a lot more comfortable (especially when the belayer is off the ground), prevents rope slip when people are hanging, and lowers very smoothly. device acts as a brake on the climbing rope by applying friction to it. Belaying from the above is a crucial skill for a multi pitch climb since you’ll be climbing high off the deck. The most common form of this kind of tubular belay device is the ATC, an acronym for "air traffic control". About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features NFL Sunday Ticket Press Copyright Jan 4, 2024 · Most climbers own 1-3 belay devices, and use different devices depending on the type of climbing, rope thickness, and location of the climb. com Nov 6, 2022 · Best Uses for the ATC. Feb 22, 2020 · With two friction modes, the ATC XP allows you to match the holding power to the circumstances. Method #3: Belaying From Above Using An Indirect Belay. 3. . ” Jan 14, 2019 · Use this at your own risk. This can be used for both single pitch and multipitch applications Jan 16, 2019 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. The rope runs from the climber directly to the belayer. However, if you want the versatility of belaying one or two followers, stick with a tube device with guide mode. It features an asymmetric design, with one side providing significantly more friction. When the climber has tied in to one end of the rope, the belayer must attach their belay device to the other end of the rope and also to their harness. But I learned on the ATC and USA Climbing events still prevent the ATC or similar. The device, plus the belayer’s quick “braking hand” (which locks off the free end of the rope), helps keep tension on the rope and helps protect the climber at the other end. Consider these models only for single-pitch routes or multi-pitches in Dec 5, 2024 · The Black Diamond ATC Guide provides the best value for multi-pitch climbing. For that reason, it is the preferred tool for multi-pitch climbing amongst all the ATC devices. 00:00 Intro02:07 Tube Style Devices06:00 Assi Aug 26, 2021 · The Guide is a bit heavier than the base ATC, but it has ridges that add friction to the system, and you can use it for multi-pitch climbing. You can use the ATC device when you want to do a rope soloing climb without a partner. (Black Diamond’s ATC—or “Air Traffic Controller”—is their model of the classic tube-style belay device. The ATC belay device will let you control your speed when you are rappelling. To use an ATC belay device, a loop of rope is threaded through one of the slots. In this class, you will learn the basic skills needed to start climbing in our gyms. Always practice vertical rope techniques under the supervision of a qualified instructor, and ideally in a progression: from flat ground, to staircase, to vertical close to the ground before you ever try them in a real climbing situation. g. However, BD’s ATC was so popular that it had the “Kleenex effect. Dec 22, 2022 · The ATC Guide: the ATC Guide is like the ATC’s big brother. Ropes measuring 7. You can set up guide mode as shown, with one rope or two. Besides arresting the fall of a climber, these devices can also be used for rappelling. You cannot use this when rappelling both strands of the rope, but it works great for climbing. Here are some tips and the best method for giving a good toprope belay, whether you’re using a tube device like an ATC or a brake-assisted belay device like the grigri. So I try to stay up on both. Using the Black Diamond ATC-XP For Canyoneering See full list on climbtallpeaks. Sep 14, 2020 · We recommend learning to use a tube-style device first with an instructor but then switching to an assisted braking device for your regular climbing. Here are a few more tips for climbing in a party of three: >>Make sure followers pay attention and keep ropes untangled. Therefore, it can be relatively limited in how it’s used. Step By Step Guide Using An Aperture-style Self-braking Belay Device (E. If you do them wrong, you could die. This is the thumb-sized ring on the side of the ATC guide, used for attaching directly to an anchor and belaying from above. The belayer is secured to the anchor point. Mar 8, 2013 · The ATC-XP was designed 10 years later by Jonny Woodward to provide more friction when using skinny 8mm ice-climbing ropes. In recent years, Figure 8’s have largely disappeared in climbing areas, due to the popularity of the ATC (how to rappel with an ATC), as well as the publicity of a few fatal accidents (more information below). There are even multiple friction modes – the “slow” side is great for beginners as it generates lots of friction and offers extra caution, while the “fast” side works great for more experienced climbers – and high-friction grooves Nov 17, 2023 · An ATC has two primary uses: belaying and rappelling. The base ATC is the most straightforward (you can’t load it backwards like the Guide since there are no ridges for the brake side), and it is cheaper than the Guide, though both are on the cheaper end Dec 11, 2016 · A basic top roping skill. We thought the ATC XP provided a similar bite to other similar devices. - You can transition from abseiling to ascending easily – useful if you abseil too far on a multi-pitch descent. ) So, I started asking questions. I have used grigri, atc and rama (from singing rock). This video teaches you how to attach your rope to your belay device and harness. AMGA Certified Rock Instructor Erik Kramer-Webb shows how to give a direct belay for the follower once you have led the trad pitch. Once someone is proficient with both an ATC and a GriGri2, I think the case is difficult to make that the ATC is any safer. After class is over, you can use your newfound skills and climb until you can’t climb anymore! One Free Intro Class (w/ purchase of an ATC day pass) Free Rental Gear; Current California EBT/Medi-Cal and photo ID required. In the indirect belay method, the belay device is secured onto the belayer’s harness. Jul 17, 2021 · Join StoneMan Climbing Co. - Your prusik will be centred, making it easier to use than if you attach it to a leg loop. This way you’ll use the safest option most of the time but if you forget your device or need to use an ATC or similar, you’ll be able to do it safely. I mainly use atc myself, or grigri if the climber prefers that. The ATC is a dynamic belay device. The device, plus the belayer's quick "braking hand" (which locks off the free end of the rope), helps keep tension on the rope and helps protect the climber at the other end. I used to use a Figure 8 primarily for canyoneering, because I liked it better than an ATC in certain situations. They can be used as a normal belay device too. The ATC is a friction-based belay and rappel device that uses bends in the rope and contact with the devices surface to increase friction, which then allows for much easier slowing down or stopping of the rope from moving through the device. If your blocking carabine 5 days ago · It is used in climbing, caving, rappelling, and other activities where the rope may be under heavy tension. This is vital to remember, especially for beginner rappelers. This Instructable is for reference purposes only, and is not meant to replace in- person training from a rock climbing professional. Understand the differences between all Belaying Devices and Learn how to use any of them Safely and Efficiently. A regular (non-guide) ATC will not have this ring and cannot be directly attached to an anchor. Feb 13, 2010 · Likes. com/jbmountainA video showing how to set up and use a belay device in guide mode, im Sep 21, 2023 · To put it bluntly, the climbing world is phasing out devices like the ATC-XP, especially for single-pitch cragging. This ATC stands to be one of the most commonly used devices for outdoor climbing. - You can use a prusik with less chance of it getting sucked into your belay device. It is very safe - IF you use it correctly. It allows for controlled descent and belaying with extra friction. Conclusion Sep 18, 2023 · It has been used in climbing for many years and is still popular for its simplicity and reliability. When the rope is weighted the angle of the device changes, locking the rope down, though, as we mentioned above, you still need to keep your brake hand on the rope. Apr 22, 2020 · Want to buy me a coffee or the boy a dog treat? https://www. Feb 12, 2024 · The ATC-Guide offers smooth handling while you climb with its lightweight and easy-to-use construction. If you graduate towards multi-pitch climbing, pick up and auto-blocking tube-style device. The greatest advantage to these advanced tubular devices is that they can be used on multi-pitch climbs to bring up your second on a “direct belay,” where you attach the device itself to your anchor instead of yourself, and therefore can be almost This video shows the AMGA standard way of belaying and lowering from the top with an ATC. Personally, I use the GriGri to belay my climbing partner and the ATC for rappelling from multi-pitch climbing. Once you get the hang of it there is no possible way you could feed slack faster with an ATC than a Gri-Gri and the less time that extra slack is in the system the better off your climber is. Feb 21, 2020 · The Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a “geometry assisted” belay device for ropes in the 8. You can use an ATC-style device to belay a climber on top rope or lead, from above or below the climber, and you can also use it to belay two following climbers at once (or one climber using half and twin ropes). Oct 1, 2021 · The ATC is a belay device used by a person on the ground – the belayer – to manage the rope attached to the climber and catch falls. This technique can FAIL if you use a skinny rope and a large belay device! I was easily able to put this into failure mode with a single strand rappel using an old style Black Diamond ATC Guide, and an 8 mm rope. 5 mm range. An ATC is used to feed rappel or climbing rope through in a controlled manner. How does it work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rop Jul 8, 2021 · What is ATC Climbing Anyway? The ATC is one of the most common belay devices used in rock climbing. Apr 28, 2025 · If you’re a newer climber, learning how to give a safe and proper toprope belay will also make you a much more desirable climbing partner. The following description assumes you will be doing a 'top rope' climb. Climbers can control rope descent and arrest falls by creating friction 4 days ago · The figure 8 device enerates less friction on the climbing rope than an ATC. As always in climbing, having redundant safety measures in your gear and practice is beneficial. As a result, this is generally the most common type of belay device used. The ATC-XP comes with an asymmetric design, as one of its sides generates considerably more friction than the other. Grigri is often presented as the safest choice, but most of the (thankfully only) near accidents I’ve experienced, has been because people have used the grigri wrong. For more advanced belaying and alpine or ice climbing, a passive ABD should also be in your quiver. For example, one device might be used for indoor gym climbing and outdoor sport cragging. This is a fundamental skill needed to become an Jan 15, 2018 · The ATC Pilot does this by simply pinching the rope between your belay ‘biner and the device when the rope is weighted, whereas some other devices, like the Petzl GRIGRI, use camming mechanisms to grab the rope. Intro to Climbing Class One technique for ascend a fixed line with an ATC guide. Dec 15, 2021 · The Black Diamond ATC Guide is one of many tube-style belay devices designed with a special guide mode attachment point. May 5, 2025 · Those models are the ATC XP, ATC Guide, Verso, Reverso, DMM Pivot, and Edelrid Giga and Mega Juls. The carabiner is then attached to the belay loop of the belayer's or rappeller's climbing harness. With it you can belay on top rope and lead in sport and trad climbing , as well as rappel from the top of a route. How to Belay With an ATC Belay Device: Pull, Brake, Under, Slide! Belaying is fun, but dangerous. Black Diamond ATC Pilot vs GriGri Learn what rock climbing belay devices like the figure-eight and ATC type, and other equipment and gear you need to control rope feed and get started climbin Dec 5, 2024 · Nearly all climbers will use their active assisted-braking device the most, so start with an active ABD and learn how to use it well. But in many other ways it seemed safer than the standard ATC I learned to climb with. Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rap Some ATC-style belay devices have a 'guide mode' function - they can be set up in a way which locks automatically if a climber falls. It functions and is used the same way as the ATC, except it has an additional loop for belaying in guide mode. If you are climbing with a partner, you can use it for belaying. With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. The setup is different for lead climbing. You will also learn how to belay using an ATC belay device, catch a fall and lower your climber back to the ground. With multi-pitch you can use an ATC, but for single pitch sport there is no reason to use an ATC over a Gri Gri unless you are just a luddite. As the belayer, assisted braking means less straining to hold a climber who is working out the moves to a tricky climb. Then a carabiner is passed through the loop of rope and the keeper loop of the ATC. Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. ATC stands for Air Traffic Control. A single rope geometry assisted belay device with enhanced braking, the ATC Pilot introduces a system that provides an added level of security to your belay, Dec 13, 2023 · When I was learning how to use the GriGri, my main hang up was that it seemed easier to short-rope a lead climber. This translates to lowering more swiftly and having less control. 0. Dec 16, 2022 · The best belay device for multi-pitch climbing is an auto-blocking belay device when the device is set up in guide mode, such as the Black Diamond ATC Guide or the Petzl Grigri. . When top-roping with large, stiff gym ropes, regular friction mode can save you lots of energy. Flip it around and use the teeth for greater holding power catching a lead fall. buymeacoffee. It combines a standard tube-style design with the ability to belay following climbers directly off the anchor on multi-pitch climbs, conveniently “auto-blocking” to catch their falls. Jul 16, 2014 · When belaying two followers, you need to tend each rope closely; that means you probably won’t be doing much else, but two followers simul-climbing is still faster than three people climbing each pitch separately. Our gym doesn't allow unassisted anymore. 7-11 mm can be used with the ATC-XP, and it can handle single May 28, 2025 · What is an ATC A Black Diamond ATC is a belay and rappel device made by the gear manufacturer, Black Diamond Equipment. Disadvantages - Takes longer to set up. A GriGri can generally handle a top belay just as efficiently as an ATC-Guide, and simul-rapping is an option when necessary. The ATC-XP also has more material, which results in a longer useful life. The most versatile ATC is the ATC Guide (or Petzl Reverso), which includes additional loops that allow you to tie off mid-rappel or connect to the wall for a direct belay. Aug 6, 2021 · GriGri vs. I would say that using an ATC is slightly more “risky” than using as assisted braking device, provided that both devices are being used properly, but that doesn’t mean that the ATC isn’t a perfectly fine, effective device. Mar 7, 2019 · Use . ATC-Pilot Belay Device – Black Diamond I use the Beal Birdie and have been looking at the new Edelrid Pinch because it's the perfect marriage of everything. Here is a summary of its key features: Type: Brake Bar Rack Nov 22, 2021 · How does an ATC belay device work? A belay device acts as a brake on the climbing rope by applying friction to it. The Beal Birdie is assisted but just different. However, the ATC is often the go-to choice for beginner or veteran climbers who like to keep things simple. ATC: Which Is Best for Multipitch Climbing? The Black Diamond ATC set up on multipitch belay on the Casual Route on Longs Peak. Instruction from a qualified professional is highly recommended when learning any new belay technique. Jan 3, 2024 · Both devices have their place in climbing, and the choice often depends on the specific needs of the climb, the preference and experience level of the climber and belayer, and the climbing environment. The ATC is one of the most straightforward designs for a belay device on the market. vlnp jgg dpyl fkvgmy wynp ssueg msztucn syitgq nomovc uortkzvx