Dyneema vs nylon slings The two main ones you’ll encounter are nylon and Dyneema (aka Dynex). You can see the strength of the nylon sling is higher in every case. For nylon slings I honestly don't think it makes much difference. 44 g/cm³ 0. This is generally more of a consideration in apparel design, but parts of your tent will likely be exposed to abrasion (think floor, pole ends and clips). They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. When a dyneema sling is used in its place all 10kn must be held by the sling as there is no stretch. Extreema Photo Gallery. That is comparing apples to oranges (or at least pears). While nylon has some desirable properties, such as good abrasion resistance and flexibility, it falls short of Dyneema in terms of strength and durability. A viewer asked why I choose to use nylon in some situations. 5mm) nylon vs. The nylon was damaged, the dyneema barely touched, but critters dragged the test into the open after Apr 16, 2025 · Nylon vs Dyneema: What’s the Difference? Let’s start with materials. It's possibly not the clearest term. Much like the Petzl Pur'Anneau Sling, this one is perfectly flat, without any sort of added bulk in the middle or ovular shape. In this article, we’ll discuss the differences between these two materials and how they affect the performance of the slings. and came across this great video that analyzes the force generated on a fall of factor 1 and 2 on a dyneema/nylon sling with and without a knot tied in it. If you're forced to make a sit harness with slings for, for instance abseiling, using some of the thinest slings (do they go down to 6mm now?) could be rather painful! Feb 3, 2017 · The peak impact force will be lower with a nylon anchor sling than with a dyneema sling, but high enough in either case to potentially cause injury to the climber or to cause gear to pull out. 1 of 2 Original Post. Are you looking to set single-pitch top-rope anchors, or multipitch belay anchors? If you're only doing single pitch, and there are no bolted anchors, just use a cordelette for your slingshot belay. com Feb 9, 2023 · For these situations, the thin Dyneema slings are ideal. Dyneema ® offers exceptional strength-to-weight ratio, being up to 15 times stronger than steel by weight, while also being lightweight, durable, and resistant to humid conditions, chemicals, and UV rays. It is made of Dyneema, so feels silky smooth to the touch, and the edges, which don't taper to a point but stay squared off, are also very smooth, without any of the weird nylon burrs that are found on the edges of a sling such as the Trango Low Bulk 11 Sling. dyneema. Nylon. Skip to content (+86)13823134897 Apr 12, 2019 · This sling weighs 37g, ever so slightly lighter than the other Nylon sling, but heavier than any of the Dyneema slings due to its added width. dyneema slings is a long one and worth reading up on. I carry 5 nylon and 5 dyneema slings. The rope stretch vastly outweighs the difference between nylon & Dyneema, negating the difference for slings & draws. 15 g/cm³ 1. And perfect an anchor setup that minimizes or eliminates knots in slings. Simple solution: don't buy dyneema slings. Have you ever wondered what the difference is between a nylon sling and a Dyneema sling? Is it safe to use Dyneema to attach to an anchor? Or what about us They are also light for alpine stuff. Sep 1, 2023 · While all Dyneema slings are joined with a small amount of nylon on the edges to give color and suppleness, the 11mm Open Loop Sling features a more equal balance of the two, which gives it some elastic stretch while still featuring the strength-to-weight ratio of Dyneema. Dyneema vs. Understanding the properties of these man-made fibres will guide us to best practice at the crag for using such products. LEARN MORE. Dyneema has a lower melting point than nylon, so the heat caused by the friction of the prusik and the rope rubbing together is more likely to melt/weaken/break a dyneema third hand than a nylon third hand. Aug 25, 2017 · Great video about strength of nylon vs. So I feel, as others do, that it's not time but rather use that wears these skinny slings out. Jan 23, 2025 · Nylon vs. It is around 15 times stronger than steel on a weight-for-weight basis. Dyneema slings are prized for their light weight and low bulk, and alpine/winter climbers often prefer them for not absorbing water. Apr 12, 2019 · The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. This DMM testing in the link below shows failure of Dyeema in fall factor 1 & 2 and nylon performed better. no risk of a static material taking a dynamic load) and B) the rope absorbs a lot of the dynamic force of falling. Factor 2 falls directly onto the anchor with little to no rope out, should be avoided, regardless of sling material used to build the anchor. Yes, I think you've misunderstood what people meant when they said "shock loaded". “This topic is one of the most engaging on his page so we thought we would explore it with both nylon and dyneema. 1x 120cm nylon runner, often used for a clove v configuration or girthing a medium tree when I'm not worried about redundancy. The bottom line is that these videos are talking about what happens when static material is dynamically loaded. Jul 2, 2024 · Edelrid tested the strength of both “polyamid” aka nylon, and “high-density polyethylene”, aka Dyneema, in 3 ways: 1) a single strand, 2) in a sewn sling, and 3) a sewn sling with a single overhand knot in the middle. Materialet har dessutom väldigt låg friktion vilket i värsta fall kan leda till att knuten vandrar genom sig själv och öppnar upp. Slings are not stretchy, so if they're used on their own to stop even a small fall then they will produce dangerously large forces that could even snap the sling (though my personal, unevidenced suspicion is that the dynamism in a human body Sep 25, 2020 · It is a stronger material compared to nylon and therefore can receive the same strength rating as a nylon sling while using less material. Dyneema ® is also called ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE), used for manufacturing several types of ropes, slings and tethers. 4mm) or 11/16" (17. e. 2500 lb 1/8" dyneema. As an example, a 85 kg mass free-falling just 60 cm on to a 60 cm Dyneema sling (fall-factor 1), with a Climbing slings are versatile loops of webbing or cord used to extend protection, build anchors, equalize forces, and prevent rope drag. The weight savings alone make dyneema the go to option for many trad climbers and alpinists who froth over having the lightest Mar 13, 2012 · The result is the sling when fully loaded only has to hold 5kn of this force. Jun 15, 2020 · Bottom Line: Nylon slings could be made as skinny, safer dynamically and less expensive than Dyneema. Dynex is a brand name for “high-molecular-weight polyethylene” fiber, which is essentially the same exact material that makes up Dyneema or any of the non-Nylon choices in this review. Skinny dyneema is the way to go. HMPE/Dyneema ® also has highly cut resistance and more durable than other synthetic solutions. See full list on outdoorgearlab. When buying quickdraws for sport climbing the majority of the options have nylon slings. 6 g when moving to 5/8″ nylon slings. I've been using the… Posted by u/SettingIntentions - 1 vote and 15 comments Dyneema stretchar ungefär 3 – 5% ,jämfört med nylon som ligger på 10-15% Knyt ej Slingor tillverkade i polyeten kan tappa upp till 50% av styrkan om man gör en knut på dem. For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. Since Dyneema is so much stronger than Nylon, slings made with it can cut serious weight, if you look at it from a percentage standpoint, as well as bulk. In a top-roping situation, your anchor slings are fine: they are 1) likely under constant load (i. For a better comparison, one should really consider 1/2" (12. Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. Both were smeared with peanut butter. Two popular materials used for webbing slings are Dyneema and Nylon. They tested over 27 girth hitches in five different configurations with John Godino from Alpine Savvy. That said, I keep a couple of nylon slings on me (usually one 60cm and one 120cm) as they are nicer for building anchors, extending your rappel, etc. They are lighter, rack better and are easier to extend. UV Damage Nylon is susceptible to degradation from UV exposure. For dyneema I feel like most people prefer the mammut 8mm contact sling, but really any dyneema sling that has the bar tack sewn in will be perfect for using for years. 1x 240cm nylon runner that is rarely used, only for the biggest trees (and often as a basket hitch) or when the three pieces are in wildly different spots. Strength is not an issue as they are all basically the same (22kn). Spectra/Dymeema is the latest-greatest material in slings, cordage, and even backpacks…but not knowing its shortcomings is potentially deadly. Why Extreema High-Performance Roundslings? Dyneema vs. Dyneema Slings. I’d prefer to discuss than downvote - you bring up a common complaint. 1x 120cm nylon runner tied into what I call a "baby quad". Even though nylon is better at holding dynamic loads many other parts of our climbing system can Oct 11, 2015 · In this video we talk about Nylon and Dyneema and the pros and cons of each material. 97 g/cm³ Friction Resistance Good OK Excellent Self lubricating Stretch High Low Very Low Creeps Colorfastness Superior Great Not Not Chemical Resistance Not good Excellent Good Excellent Arresting Force Excellent Good Not good Not good […] In a previous video we compared the impact forces generated using nylon and Dyneema® (Dynatec) slings with a dynamic load. They get in the way on your harness/over the shoulder and are just bulky as fuck. May 12, 2023 · The gear testing group How Not 2 goes to work breaking dyneema and nylon sling girth hitches to discover what’s stronger. The nylon was damaged, the dyneema barely touched, but critters dragged the test into the open after Mar 2, 2016 · This table shows the +147. read about liftex® and Jun 9, 2020 · New climber here. It’s become a bit of an ongoing point, but one that seems like it hasn’t yet sunk in with many climbers out there–that is, the inherent differences of Spectra/Dyneema and good-old nylon. These materials exhibit different strength characteristics: Nylon Slings. Jun 24, 2024 · This makes Dyneema a more versatile and durable option in many applications. BUT - when creating a situation where a high factor fall could happen on the sling alone, nylon has proven safer. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device , replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling . Stories – Black Diamond Jun 24, 2024 · When comparing Dyneema to other outdoor materials like nylon or polyester, Dyneema generally offers superior strength and durability. Apr 11, 2019 · The Mammut Contact Sling is the perfect example of what can be gained by using the top of the line technology, in this case Dyneema fiber, to lower the weight and size of a product. 8mm or 10mm Dyneema. Here are the results. 6 g weight jump moving from 7/16″ Dyneema slings to 1/2″ hybrid slings and another big jump of +117. It's even annoying building anchors with them. Nylon is a common synthetic fiber that is used in a wide range of applications. Dyneema has a significantly higher strength-to-weight ratio compared to nylon or polyester fibers. So dyneema slings tend to be thinner and lighter than conventional nylon slings. *Weight data was pulled in March 2016, and included widths and weights for 90 different single slings from 21 different brands with single slings between 50 cm and 80 cm. I use 6mm nylon cord. If you make your own slings, tie your nylon webbing with a water knot that has long tails (at least 2" long). Follow topic: Email Notify on site Post Reply. Mar 1, 2018 · There's been a lot of discussion on MP about dyneema slings vs. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). Aug 31, 2020 · The discussion over nylon vs. com/disclaimer Apr 20, 2006 · Saved Content. 8mm Dyneema as both have roughly equivalent masses per length (a shoulder length Dyneema is way better for alpine draws. Knots in nylon= ok knots in dyneema= less ok but still okay. Mostly because its easier to untie an overhand knot or a clove hitch with it, and if you fell on it while using as a PAS its much safer than dyneema (see this scary DMM video showing 2 foot direct falls on slings). Bulk webbing is only available in nylon. It clearly highlighted the importance of ensuring there is no slack in a system using slings. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Apr 11, 2019 · Handle. But I figured a fairer test would be with equal-strength nylon tubular and dyneema slings -- 2400 lb 5/8" nylon tubular webbng vs. In short, nylon is heavier and stretchier, while dyneema slings are lighter, less absorbent, and more slippery. But the solution is simply don’t do that! Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. Feb 11, 2016 · Dyneema is great for alpine/trad draws (extendable slings), and nylon is ideal for sport draws seeing lots of use and projecting, as well as anchor systems. You can use dyneema slings in a redundant anchor but you would need multiples. while the 2 yellow dyneema loops were largely intact. Sling Protection. (the sliding x is not redundant in the sling). nylon, and cordelettes vs. Making the Right Choice. Cord is useful for creating custom-length slings, such as a cordelette, that can be used in anchor construction or in friction hitches for rappels and aid Apr 20, 2006 · In reply to CJD: One suggestion made on here a while ago where nylon slings could have an advantage over dyneema ones is due to the width of the slings. AFAIK that 50% in 3 years figure came from the testing Joe Healy has done on his heavily used Mammut slings. It comes in a wide selection of different widths and lengths, making it Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. Nylon is the most abrasion resistant of these fabrics. Chase Roskos Sep 5, 2015 · - dyneema slings lose strength quicker with use than nylon or mixed after a few years ~50% of dyneema slings test under 16 KN - fuzziness is a good indicator of the strength of a sling if its fuzzy like a bear its time to retire - retire dyneema slings after ~3 years of use and even if rarely used no greater than 5 years or so Oct 9, 2023 · Luckily, a nylon cord, sling, or one of those thicker dyneema mixes (like available from Edelrid, Mammut, etc) per anchor isn't that much more overall weight, and is much more robust for this purpose. Bulk Since we have repeatedly described the downsides of this sling's added bulk, it should come as no surprise that when assessed specifically for this quality alone, it received the lowest score, tied Nylon has the knot and some stretch to help your anchor survive. Nylon (polyamide) and Dyneema®/Spectra® (polyethylene) are two synthetic raw materials with distinct strengths and weaknesses used in the manufacture of slings and quickdraws. Shop for Bulk Webbing. A 7-8mil nylon cord would be a better choice for making anchors in general and when you get more experience you can figure out what's worth saving weight on. 37 g/cm³ 1. I use double length nylon sling to extend rappel or make a PAS for cleaning. HMPE SMALL SLINGS. tying in with the rope. When it comes to climbing slings, the choice between nylon and Dyneema can significantly affect their load capacity. what are the advantages/disadvantages of dyneema (or dynex or spectra) vs nylon? what do you prefer and why? as extra credit, can anyone tell me why it's so hard to order specific colored runners? the color option always seems to be "assorted," but i like my different lengths to be different colors so i know at a glance what i'm clipping. Sep 4, 2010 · Typically when people compare climbing slings they are looking at 1" (25. On top of that, slings made of polyethylene have, despite their low average mentioned above, a six or seven times higher edge stability than the equivalent made of polyamide (cf. thanks! Jan 1, 2017 · Materials Nylon 6-6 Polyester Kevlar Dyneema Melting Point °C °C °C °C Mass Density 1. Nylon Slings (like our 15mm Nylon Sling) Thicker and stretchier than Dyneema; Great for building top-rope anchors; Absorbs shock better; Easier to tie knots with; Slightly heavier and bulkier You don't want big fat slings. Nylon is a widely used material for making climbing slings due to its durability and cost-effectiveness. Disclaimer - http://www. The document has moved here. Climbing Cord. Bad things (can) happen. Moved Permanently. Jul 17, 2018 · In reply to. These uses tend to not be very rough on slings. martinturnchapel:. I have tested a single Mammut sling, VERY LIGHTLY used for about 6 years and it was IIRC about 80% of rated strength. Strength and Durability: Dyneema is known for its high strength and low weight, making it ideal for webbing slings. These can become failure points if the fabric abraids enough to weaken it. When choosing the protection for our fibre slings, bear in mind that; HMPE/Dyneema ® has a tenacity which is approximately 4 times higher than polyester and nylon. 7mm) nylon vs. The primary reason is because I prefer nylon tethers due to the fact that nylon stretches and Dn Lighter and more flexible than nylon slings; Highly abrasion-resistant; Width: 12 mm; Available in 3 color-coded sizes for easy identification: 24, 60, and 120 cm Oct 9, 2023 · Price: Dyneema ropes are often more expensive than nylon or polyester ropes, which can be a consideration for budget-conscious climbers. This fact makes nylon the material of choice for dynamic loads. Berg and Steigen 3/12). A nylon sling would be more robust than a dyneema sling, but they are bigger and more unwieldy for such a purpose. I've been looking into all sorts of advice/methods on rappelling, anchor building, multi-pitch climbing, etc. obsessionclimbing. Anyway, that's my thoughts on the subject, but without thorough testing, it's all admittedly based on conjecture. Sport anchor: 2 quickdraws Trad anchor: cordelette or climbing rope I've only been slacking since last Sunday, and only had to buy webbing because I already had the rest of the gear from climbing. HMPE. dtzhw slg jlb ccfo fvneimf oha oyggdt ojut pahlzp sryu