How much cordelette for quad anchor reddit 1. This setup is for 3 anchor points. A factor 2 fall on the anchor was I think 16kn for nylon, 25 for dyneema and only 8kn for an anchor made using ropes. Well I finally adopted the dyneema quad instead of my 15ft 7mm cordelette so I recon it balances out, next step is to buy a rope skinnier than 10mm lol Reply kovid2020 • 1. Although you can create both a 2-piece quad and a 3-piece quad from the same cordelette, I recommend using a shorter cordelette for bolted stances (those which usually have two bolts) and a longer cordelette for trad anchors. 5 tech cord but more versatile. Just use a sling or two, or a quad, or a cordelette, or an equalette, or a couple sliding X'swhatever floats yer boat. If the route is directly below the bolts and is fairly vertical two quick draws works fine. I’ve used 100ft ropes for tree anchors do this in a specific toproping area I used to frequent. Dyneema slings are sewn to Only been building gear anchors for 1 season and I’m finding it hard to see why so many people use the cordelette with a master point knot, instead of an equalette with 2 limiting knots in the middle and clove on 3 or 4 of the legs, depending how many pieces of gear in your anchor. I was fully picturing a 120cm in my head. This can shock load an anchor dangerously, which is why it is important to limit the potential for extension as much as possible. Before guides, we all just anchored with the rope. I have always used 2 quickdraws opposite and opposed for toprope anchors but this weekend I had someone at the crag tell me…. If swapping leads, I most often anchor with the rope. Were the op or others to infer this is a sound anchor they might use this setup with far longer slings or to non bolted anchors. If leading in blocks, I most often use a regular cordelette, sometimes anchor with the rope. Anyone with some reasonable climbing experience is immediately aware of how overkill the quad-anchor fervor is - especially for top-rope applications. For gear anchors, the quad will be tricky as you usually have 3 pieces in your anchor (meaning you have to tie two pieces of protection together to end up with two clip-in points for your quad). How long should a quad anchor sling be? The quad anchor is an increasingly popular choice for many climbers. 9 high tensile stuff for a lot of things, but anchor building isn't one of them. Versatility: cord is more versatile, but a bit more bulky. Cord Materials Mike shows how to build a quad anchor with 7mm cordelette. A loose fig-8 tied on 8 strands of a cordelette? Yeah, that will absorb some energy because the knot has so much volume to give up in tightening, but with a clove, your strands are already up against the biner, nowhere to go. This can shock-load the remaining piece(s). The prusiks should only be holding 1-2x bodyweight, not falls, and smaller cord is better for grabbing skinny alpine ropes. Chart of results is at the end of the video馃憠 Learn I have done many normal anchors, some anchors to threes, but never before with trad gear. As for a TR anchor, I'd worry with the use of non locking carabiners. The slings you will use for a top rope anchor will typically be 120cm, while those for a sling draw would be 60cm (although you are correct in thinking that Dyneema is the best kind of sling for this purpose). In a three-piece quad, only the component on an arm by itself (A) can cause an extension if it fails. It is the wrong way to treach anchoring. If you’re building way back from the edge of the cliff and extending your anchor out you may want to leave it at the full 30m. The cordelette was a guide trick adopted by recreational climbers. It's great for a lot of anchor set ups because of it's stretching abilities. By tying load limiter knots into the quad, at least 2 parts of the sling would need to simultaneously fail for the anchor to fail. You can rig it “bunny ears” style, to utilize anchors that are very far apart. The difference in set up time between a quad and 2quickdraws is negligible, and the quad is a better TR anchor. Additional bail option to leave a cordelette. Not really, there's not much room for a clove to tighten. Cheap, can be used for bail anchors and I use them in the winter for V-threads. Posted by u/2N654Tog - 3 votes and 31 comments Defining one anchor to be ok for tr bolted anchors while not ok for perhaps most other scnarios is dangerous. 21 votes, 29 comments. At the point when part of an anchor breaks, the anchor has absorbed (and therefore reduced) the load significantly. Not for all anchors. I am in the process of renewing pretty much all nylon, webbing and sling from my rack. I initially bought a 30ft accessory cord, and sliced this down to 22ft because it was impossible to tie a quad. Blue Water / Mammut 6mx7mm cord, open cord (not a knotted loop). You just made a 3-piece quad. Best Situation To Use The Quad Anchor To equalize two bomber anchor points such as a two-bolt anchor. com Jun 7, 2024 路 While I'm generally not a fan of the 7 mm cordelette, you can certainly use one to make a quad anchor. As such, I use the 5. Before the quad, guides used cordelette anchors. Clip 1 locking carabiner onto each of the 3 anchor points. Otherwise I would pick up a belay device with an autolocking guide mode (atc guide, reverso, pivot, megajul, etc. Banshee is great for bringing up second when there's only two bolts at top but for TR I'd use only quad. In the photo below, the red cord is Sterling Powercord. 7mm is a very common standard for cordelette. Posted by u/beefpastry - 1 vote and 14 comments Posted by u/trollhawk - 2 votes and 23 comments Jul 11, 2016 路 The quad is great for bolted belays as it is fast, allows for some movement of the master point, and gives you more room in the master point. We built a full quad anchor out of 6mm accessory cord that is only 6kn strong and we're getting 32kn. They had a problem with the cordelette I got to set up an anchors. You typically set up a cordelette with 3 anchor points. The quad anchor allows for some equalization to attempt to try to equalize the load between the two bolts, especially if the route isn’t directly below the bolts. If you want a cordelette for multi-pitch, I'd recommend 7mm X 20 ft. See full list on climbing. If you're only going to be at 2 bolt sport anchors, some people make a quad out of a 240 mm Dyneema sling. You should have a 2-piece anchor with a super long master point. In this scenario nylon will stretch much more then dyneema will, making it the better choice. Usually there are no bolted anchors where I climb. Then I realized I could just tie a quad and anchor myself without effecting the direction of the belay is pretty sweet. Tying a cordelette for a quad. It's much safer imo. Easier to extend for far pieces without having to use your runners. But, dynamically equalized anchors really don't dynamically equalize in anything more than a 2-point anchor and, even then, equalize poorly due to clutch effect. 8mm rope is a must for these anchors to get enough length and get the angle of anchor points smaller. Personal preference, I guess. Or to belay directly from for that matter. This simple setup meets SERENE, can change directionality, arms can be used to personally anchor i Is there any reason not to use a 120cm sling as a quad? I see everyone else with a doubled up 240cm or cordelette. Bulkier than 5. spectra will have much less in the knot than 7mm cord. High loads (those high enough to break anchors) are almost never constant in the real world. 20 extra feet of cord has come in super handy for me enough times in weird situations - for ascending Step By Step Guide To Set Up Top Rope Anchors With A Cordelette . For placements this far apart, you want quad length or longer cordelette to reduce the angle spanned between the widest piece and minimize multiplying the forces in the load direction. The 3-piece quad doesn't work for every situation. Edit: ignore me, my bad. Think about your needs and resources for each anchor and choose the one that works the best. Sometimes with a regular cordelette or slings. /5. I agree that you should be careful with anchor construction and shouldn't assume that your 3 point anchor is the theoretical 3x stronger. ) The standard way of tying it, with a doubled 180 cm or 240 cm sling, works great, provided you have that gear with you. rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. But using your rope or PAS as the anchor is NG if you're leading in blocks, or worried about escaping the belay in a crisis. It also doesn't tie up a 10 feet of rope at each anchor (if you are creating a power Quad is really useful solution for do-it-all anchor when weight or bulk isn't huge issue. Don't start over thinking your anchor systems. 5. The results were quite shocking to me. And yes we are scared of falling. I recently bought a lot of gear to start climbing outdoors with a few friends, and I went to my local gym to get their opinion on the quality of my gear and how I use it. However, I personally prefer a quad length 10cm sling over my cordelette 95% of the time for building anchors because it is lighter and less bulky. Jul 6, 2014 路 Leaving aside the question of personal likes and rock type, the width of cord makes a massive difference to the distance one can reach with a cordelette. Anchor Material 1x 18’ Cordelette and 1x 240cm Dyneema Sling on 1x carabiner (sometimes just two cordelettes) This gives flexibility for anchor building on bolts, monolith, trees, pitons, or gear (we have it all). Dec 17, 2019 路 Just get 6 meters of Sterling 7 mm cordelette if you want to work with quad anchors. Cord comes in diameters from 1mm up to 9mm, sometimes greater. On bolted anchors I use a BD Dyneema 240cm knotted as a quad anchor. Specifically the cordelette. Oct 29, 2023 路 Tldr: 7+ mm cord and a 240mm will work great and you won't have to worry at all. I got this cordelette, which is only 8mm wide. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. I try for 3 pieces but will work with 2 if I determine they are really good. I would have used threes, but didnt have any static rope with me this time. For #1, it's true that statically equalized anchors don't equalize. While it’s a bit expensive, it's only 6 mm but is rated to 20 kN, almost 3 times stronger than normal 6 mm cord. don't get cordelette if you plan on trad climbing later, John Long is an awesome climber, 30 damn years ago, climbing has gone a long way since, cordelette is the slowest, most noob anchor ever, build your anchors out of slings, it will be much more versatile and faster in the future and getting familiar with this type of anchor in easy waters Quads without knots violates the "redundancy" priciniple of SERENE anchors. Posted by u/KingPupPup - 6 votes and 15 comments I think my rock anchor cordelette is 7mm and my rescue prusiks (for both rock and snow use) are 5mm. Aug 30, 2017 路 I recently bought a 100 meter spool of 6mm cord because it was on sale and I leave so much of it as rappel anchors. I have always considered 6mm to be too weak for quad anchor/cord-a-lette material, however, this manufacturer rates it at 9kn. if it is, you did something else very wrong. If you double or triple up your cordelette and use it on a two bolt anchor you and your climbing partner will be fine, it's not gonna break. Posted by u/TheCrazyGoatMan - 3 votes and 13 comments I usually go with a pre-tied quad on 7mm cord for belay stations with two bomber bolts. Sure you could top rope off of it no problem but for multi pitch sport I would always use a longer cord to tie a quad. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. Again, easily identifiable masterpoint and easy for the client to disassemble unsupervised. I have quad and banshee rig made of 7mm/11kN cord. I typically use double slings too, but use a munter + locker at the master point to reduce the amount of material needed. However, those slings are unusual sizes, and can be hard to find. They said this was pretty thin for an anchor. For multi pitch trad I was carrying a cordelette for gear anchors and a double length to an over hand on a bite at bolted anchors. Cordelette vary in terms of length and diameter, but a textbook cordelette is “7 and 7”: about 7 meters of 7mm cord, tied into one large loop with a well-dressed knot. Aug 18, 2011 路 Wehling wrote:Using the rope for anchors is unimaginative, lame, and most importantly not going to get you chicks! :) 15 ft of 6mm nylon is my choice. Tie another overhand in the "master point" you made and clip the end to your third piece. I only set quickdraws on the anchor if I'm going to lower and someone else is going to lead. ) and start practicing top belay on single pitch sport routes (you lead, build anchor, bring up follower, and then both rap off). You distribute the anticipated load as best you can. (See a detailed article about the quad here. This is a static equalization anchor. Sometimes I like to extend it over an edge that is about 8-10 ft back from the anchor and if I completely untie my 20’ Cordelette, I can extend about 8’ or so to the ledge rather than only about 4’ if it’s in a tied loop. Sep 21, 2018 路 Because most people aren’t willing or able to objectively test these out for themselves to see what their true level of safety (or lack thereof) is, if a nylon cord is used I’d strongly recommend using 7mm for anchor construction, and if the weight and bulk is a significant problem using a Contact sling with a 22kn breaking strength - The quad will extend slightly should either anchor point fail. TBH, "If a newer sport climber learns only one anchor I'd much rather it be" one of these: The older style of belaying off the harness has the leader clipping a piece of the anchor to protect against a factor 2 fall, which could be near the maximum impact force of the rope (8-9kN), means that the clipped piece of the anchor is acting as a 2:1 pulley and can actually feel more force (1 & 2/3 maximum impact force due to frictional Just stick with the cordelette. - Since the quad needs to be doubled up, it is difficult to equalize anchors where the placements are far apart. Cord is useful for creating custom-length slings, such as a cordelette, that can be used in anchor construction or in friction hitches for rappels and aid climbing. This is the reason I called dyneema anchors "static anchors", conversely I would also call nylon anchors "dynamic anchors". You also have to tie the ends together, making it a bit more effort and complicated. In a cordelette set up, if there's any extra material going to one of your anchor points, and less going to another, it means that there is more stretch in the system on the further away anchor points, and less in the But if someone falls near the anchor with less rope to soak up the shock, and the anchor is less than bombproof, that 7mm elasticity could theoretically matter. So, it's kind of a wash. (I do actually also carry 6mm tech cord in old school cordelette form most of the time on long multipitch with gear anchors, especially when there are ledges with natural features to sling/tie off or the pitches are true rope-stretchers. What I learned today. The op is a beginner and presented an anchor. For a more long term anchor you want locking biners and multiple points for tieing people in, hanging gear/rope, and general versatility. My prusiks are 6mm nylon. 20ft of 5. For comparison, PMI 7mm is rated at 10. 2 quickdraws are fine as a very short term anchor, like if you are rapping a multipitch or flying up an easy sport climb and swapping leads. Cordollettes are also useful if for some reason the second needs to reconstruct an anchor or climb the rope. When in comparison to dyneema, nylon does give dynamic force absorption capabilities. My favorite anchor for top roping at sport crags is the quad anchor using cordelette. The home of Climbing on reddit. The only time I would take cordelette is if I'm in a more adventurous area and I may have to cut my cord to make rap anchors on the descent. But if you're leading in blocks, this makes no sense at all. If you're gonna be climbing the route for a while on TR then use a quad. This provides redundancy in case one of the anchor points fails. 5 m (15 ft) piece of 6 mm Sterling PowerCord. I spend some time considering 6mm or 7mm for anchor cordelette (I selected the ticker). You can even get pre-sewn ones if you do not want to fuss with the double fishermans. 240cm is plenty of I always undo my cordelette to extend the anchor for top roping. 7 kn. If you’re building gear anchors right above a climb, 21-25 feet of cord will be totally sufficient. I recently took an anchors class and I’m setting a walk-up toprope later in the week. For my shorter cordelettes, I use a 4. DMM did a video comparing nylon and dyneema slings with ropes in the anchor. Oct 24, 2018 路 You can cut it up and leave it for rappel anchors. Using the quad as a cookie-cutter solution to anchoring is a classic example of failing to understand the relative sources of risk in climbing. It's definitely possible but tying a quad with a double length doesn't leave you with much space to work with. I use a 6mm cordelette and it has taken plenty of falls from my seconder and its holding up just fine. If you built a quad anchor without knots, and any part of the single was cut, the entire anchor would fail. It's sold by the foot or in sections: 20- or 30-foot sections are common lengths. There's Most of the time I build my anchors using the rope itself. 90 degrees between "tripod legs" absolute maximum. My quad still seems extremely long — should I cut this down even more to 18ft? Would a quad setup that’s this long be dangerous in any way? A self-distributing anchor like a quad will extend if all the components on an arm fails.
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